Sunday 24 April 2011

I would walk five hundred miles...

Today I broke five hundred miles! It was a divine day to reach such a cool mile marker! The terrain was fairly easy, the sun was shining and the birds were singing. We ordered pizza at Partnership Shelter for lunch and sat around chatting for a while. Our trail family is a large one (most people seem to move in packs of 2 or 3, while we have anywhere from 5 to 8 people hiking together at a time), and I loved having all of us together for a big lunch!
Yesterday was a day of trail magic. After a dinner of pork loin and onions from some overnighters (I apparently ear meat when it's free on the trail), we had sausage and egg tortillas provided for breakfast. A sectioner was grilling burgers and dogs around noon at a road crossing and had sodas and beers for us, too! Finally that afternoon, Booksmarts, The Colonel, Blister and I got a ride into town for a quick diner dinner before heading on to the shelter.
Essentially the last 48 hours have been some of the best so far! That's pretty lucky as I've decided today to bring my hike to an end. After five hundred miles, I'm going to miss this trail alot (I already do!), but I think its a better to spend a couple weeks with my family before moving away (as opposed to the original plan of 48 hours).
This trip has been absolutely incredible. I couldn't think of a better way to spend six weeks! I've met great people and seen inspiring views. But more than anything, I've learned I really can do anything I set my mind to. My favorite saying out here has consistently been "it can't last forever", and that's true for more than just mountains!

"It's not about the miles, it's about the smiles" - saying along the AT

Wednesday 20 April 2011

Damascus, VA: the friendliest town on the trail! Unfortunately we spent the first half of our day into this friendly town trying fruitlessly to find a place to sleep for the night. In the end, the five of us (Redwood, Lego, Enzed, Cascade and I) split up for the night. Redwood, Lego and I went to a donation-based hostel called The Place. It was essentially a four-sided shelter with individual beds and a semi-shower. Still, it was cheap and a place to sleep!

A ton of hikers were in town for the night, so we all met up for a rambunctious evening of pizza and beers. While we (mostly Enzed and I) may have partaken in a few too many beers, a great time was had by all! Today I passed my time being as lazy as possible, slowly getting laundry and food shopping done until by 3 I was sprawled out in the grass reading a book. Zero days in town are definitely the best part of this hike! ;)

Getting to Damascus was quite an adventure! We left Erwin in a freezing downpour and were soaked by the time we reached the shelter. That night was cold, rainy and windy and sleeping in my hammock was not a great idea... We shortened the next day to a 9-miler so we could dry ALL of our belongings out around the fire that morning. Another remarkable day came shortly after that when we did 23 miles up, over and well beyond Roan Mt. It was long and exhausting, and I was in a terrible mood by nightfall. Just 24 hours later, we "slept" through a rain storm with 65+ mph winds! Finally, we made it into a hostel just outside of Hampton, TN called Kincora run by Bob Peoples.

Consensus among AT hikers is that Bob Peoples is the friendliest person on the trail. Shelters for miles out of Kincora are tagged with graffiti like "When Bob Peoples stays here, mice bring him food" or "the AT took 6 months off to hike Bob Peoples", and- my personal favorite- "Damascus took a zero in Bob Peoples". All of these sayings are hilarious to long-distance hikers, by the way, though they may not make much sense to others.

Tomorrow I begin my last 3 weeks on the trail. With hopes of making it all the way to Shenandoah National Park, I'm trying not to take any more zeros after today. That's extremely upsetting to me on a moral level, but I would like to get as far north as possible in the next 21 days! It's hard to believe these 2 months in the wilderness are so close to over...

“You need special shoes for hiking – and a bit of a special soul as well.” — Emme Woodhull-Bäche

Monday 11 April 2011

Trail Magic Abounds

After a rough day out of Hot Springs (I spent the better part of the morning falling down rather than walking for some reason), Day 2 showed much improvement! Two previous thru-hikers, FAL (Free At Last) and Hercules, fed us an amazing meal of waffles, black bean veggie rice, brownie sundae, coffee and soda! Their house was gorgeous, as well. They were very friendly folk, and their trail magic was much appreciated! Later that day, we crossed over an exposed ridge which really distracted me! It was my longest mile yet (talking me almost an hour), because I spent so much time taking pictures and just digging the experience. The next day was just as fabulous ("cruisy", as Enzed would put it)! I passed Canman early in the morning and he provided me with my favorite quote on the trail so far, "Even an old, fat man like me is happy as hell out here!"
Finally, yesterday happened. First, I had a horrendous night's sleep with about 3 1/2 hours' worth. Then we slogged 20.7 miles to a shelter. I still did it well within our usual 2 hour/mile time limit, but- man, alive- was it hard! Twice I seriously considered hanging my hammock and calling it a day. But, with a couple of great views and even more trail magic, I persevered. Quiet Paul, an '07 thru-hiker, had a breakfast of eggs, hash browns, orange juice and more waiting just 2 miles down the trail. Half way through the day, Ruben Two's wife stopped us at a road crossing with snacks and Powerades! Trail Magic is a wonderful thing!
I've got a new group to travel with now, and while I miss the others, these guys are awesome, too! Redwood and Lego are a couple of friends doing the trail together from Ithaca, NY, Cascade and his dog, Sierra, are from Washington St, there's still Enzed, and Rocket and her husband, Spaceman, have been tenting near us and having lunch with us for a couple days now. We're all bunked up in Uncle Johnny's Hostel for the night, and Daniel's coming in for one last visit before I get too far north. This is a very cool place with very cool people; just what a hostel should be!
Tomorrow we head out for a 5 day haul (it will be a haul- the hills look awful!) towards Hampton, TN. And, we'll be in Damascus (trail heaven) this time next week!

"Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt" - found in FAL and Hercules' house

Monday 4 April 2011

In Which the Smokies Beat my Butt or The Joyful Tale of a Yellow Blazer

Whoa! What a crazy week! Ten days ago, I flew into the NOC with GIPC Girl, Just Jon and a LOAD of other people. We spent the better part of the afternoon drinking by the Nantahala until a rainshower ran us into the restaurant for an early dinner. It was delicious (as the food there always is). I even got to watch some of the UNC game that night! We packed 6 people into our 4-person bunkroom, and the next day I lounged around the NOC watching the US Paddling Open, picking up supplies, looking at new packs (I've about run mine into the ground), and playing cards. That afternoon, I caught a ride to Fontana Dam, putting into play my first yellow-blaze.
It's called yellow-blazing, because instead of following the white blazes of the AT, you hitch a ride and skip over some sections, thus following the "yellow blazes" of the road. I spent a nice night in the Fontana Hilton (a REALLY nice shelter at Fontana Dam) and looked for Enzed all morning the next day. We finally met up, and again I lounged about all day. We had some hot dogs (veggie for me and falling Turtle) that night from White Lightening who graced us with great trail magic (oatmeal creme pies, sodas, and more on top of the dogs!). The next morning Enzed and I started into the Smokies on a very cold, rainy morning.
We spent the next 6 days hiking through cold wet mush, though there was one day of blissful sunny skies. We were even hiking in shorts and t-shirts! The rest of the time was snowy or just plain cold. Still, the Smokies were gorgeous. I definitely want to visit them again some time soon.
Two days ago, we dragged our butts out of the Smokies under beautiful blue skies. After a quick 10.5 miles, we stayed at Standing Bear Farm for the night. That's a really neat, rustic farm-turned-hostel, but I'm fairly certain it doesn't pass many inspection regulations!
Yesterday was a 15 mile day with Max Patch in the afternoon. I spent at least an hour sleeping on top under the sun while Enzed headed on to the shelter. Peregrine and Earl Grey joined me for a bit before we wandered down to the shelter for the night. It was packed! Mammoth, Chris and his dog, Sierra, and Deuce and Ibex were there with us.
Today we did a rapid 18 miles into Hot Springs to beat a huge storm that's been threatening all afternoon. We put in 18 miles in just 7 hours (really 7 hours and one minute!). We were flying today! It was definitely one of three days that stick out in my mind as absolute bests. I've rarely felt as happy as I did today!
Unfortunately, we got into town only to find we had no cell service (thank you, AT&T), but my friend, Daniel, is coming to visit tomorrow so maybe he'll drive us to within coverage...

"Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit is the answer to the mystery why we climb" -Greg Child

Tuesday 22 March 2011

Meanwhile Back in Brevard...

What a great 48 hours! After climbing the steepest uphill yet, I finally made it into my last shelter of the week Sunday night. Enzed and Forest took a zero day (meaning they didn't hike any), so I was on my own for much of the day save running into some weekend hikers who "trail magicked" me some chocolate covered coffee beans! "Karma" and "Fawn" also had chocolate and Kashi bars to share. "Burly", another thru hiker, came along and shared some skittles (the rest of which I later found waiting for me at the shelter!). I spent a sleepless night in the shelter and finally headed out on a quick 4-miler before sunrise on my way to catch a shuttle into Franklin. My friend Daniel picked me up and we came back to Brevard for a much needed day of rest. He's headed out to a shelter just 4 miles further up the trail with me tomorrow to spend the night then I'll continue on to the NOC by Saturday and hopefully Fontana Dam Monday or Tuesday! After that I will hopefully have caught up to Enzed and Forest (who probably will do more than just 4 miles out of Franklin tomorrow), so we can hit the Smokies together!

All in all, this trip is stellar! =)

"I haven't got any special religion this morning. My God is the God of walkers. If you walk hard enough, you probably won't need any other god." - Bruce Chatwin, 'In Patagonia', 1977

Thursday 17 March 2011

Mexican Food and Clean Laundry Make for a Great Day!

Enzed,Forest Gimp and I made it into Dick's Creek Gap around noon today after three incredible days together! The first was rainy, but we were the first into the shelter at 2 and spent the rest of the day curled in our sleeping bags. The next two days were beautiful and productive (15 miles in one!). Today we beat a number of people into Hiawasee, but the inn was full, so we headed down to a motel before pigging out on a Mexican dinner.
There are awesome people out here. I know Enzed (from New Zealand, 'N Z' with a New Zealand accent) and Forest Gimp (from Texas who fell on day one) best. Boomer, Peregrine and Comanche are a couple more regulars along with K-3 and Chris. I met Black Thunder and Wild Card just as we got into town today, both of whom are from Raleigh!
Tomorrow starts a 3.5 day drag to Franklin for my first 'near-o' day (an almost zero day). So far this is a great trip, and I hope some of you can join me over the coming weeks!

"Now shall I walk or shall I ride? 'Ride' Pleasure said; 'Walk' Joy replied." W. H. Davies

Monday 14 March 2011

Just One Step After Another

Dad and I made it 16 miles in two days, came off the trail for a night and I booked it to Neels Gap on day 3. So far that's 30 miles of awesome people and sweet views! I've managed to keep up with N Zed, Kilo-3, Chief, Walking Man and a couple others I don't know well. Hopefully I'll be able to stick with these guys for a while (but they do big miles!).
Dad's leaving in the morning, and I'm pretty bummed about it. But I love being out here, so I'll probably be OK! For tonight we're camping out at some Inn in Blairsville.
Last note- I've got a trail name, 'High Five'!